Dec 31, 2013

Happy new Year to all of you passionated mountaineers !

A great 2013 has come to and end and will give space for an least just as good 2014!

This year has given a lot of good skiing, rock tours and ice/mixed up things
I am glad for all of you that are following mountain passion blog and hope you continue doing so. For inspiration, tips and pleasure

// Thanks
Krister Jonsson

Summit of Mont Toubkal

Summit of Eiger, Mitteleggi ridge

Ice season has started

//Djävulen finner alltid syssla till sysslolösa händer… bonne annèe 

Dec 19, 2013

Nant Fandraz - 400m WI5

Since the winter has started with low temperatures the ice conditions has turned out to be more than good

And togheter with the low amount of snow the approaches as well as the danger of getting avalanched is low as well. There fore many exposed ice routes is quite safe to approach and climb at the moment.

One of these is the ones up in the gorges above les Contamines, Nant Juaune, Fandraz and le Tremplin. All which a in good conditions at the moment.

After a ski tour up to mont Joly I just hooked on the plan to pack my light weight Ozone wing and go for a speed ascent of Fandraz. It just looked like a perfect goal and would bring a nice flight as well in my opinion at least...


Early morning and a look at "paragliding map" gave the answer that the wind was to strong and from the wrong direction. Bit nothing worse than I could do with an other coffee and perform a bit of "office work"

An hour later the sun was up there shining but the winds kept on it forces as well. But as the patience got lower I still just decided to give it a go. The extra weight of the glider, 1.2kilograms, is just nothing to fuzz about and it would still be a nice day outside


Driving up to the village with all the inspiring mountains around makes the day even "en plus" and togheter with some good country music in the speakers the mood is a top


The approach turns out to be a pure satisfaction, 20min of walking and I'm at the base of the gorge and a couple of 100mts of canyoning up the gorge brings me to the foot of the ice.

Time to start swinging!

Except for a couple of chamois I'm just by my self today, just foot prints from the ice team I saw wo days ago and nothing else


The climbing is easy on soft ice, with the only hazard of quite big stones that comes tumbling down the colouir now and then. Mostly then actually.

20 min approach and 1.40min climbing takes me to the summit slopes of T Orient and Mont Joly, with almost no wind...time for a bit of relaxing and dejuner in the sun. Finishing the water bottle and a pice of baguette

Then part 2 starts with a comfy descent with my Miniwing back down to the parking, almost landing at the back of my Ford


/Cruxet med självförtroende är att man måste känna sig så jävla mycket bättre än alla andra...


Dec 15, 2013

Offerdal - mixed up place

Offerdal - mixed up place

After a couple of days in Abisko, actually a loong weekend, with some decent ice climbing in this magic place up in the very north of Sweden.

This place which is one of the driest areas in Sweden, neighbor with Björkliden and Riskgränsen. Which is one of the places that gets most precipitation during the year. Climbing here is so much than just swinging the ice axes.
The cold arctic climate, the short days and the northern lights, it's just amazing!
Early afternoon in Abisko, short intensive days in december

But, the weekend came to an end and the trip continued south to Östersund. A trip that came to a stop in Offerdal, Rise. About 50km west of Östersund on the we towards Åre. Which is one of the bigger ski resorts in Suede.
One of many interesting mixed routes in Offerdal

This area has two sectors with about 2km in distance between, so its different parking places. A car is required, just to get here. The routes here involves every kind of climbing on ice, rock and mixed. With rope lengths up to 50m.
The main ice is very obvious from the road and the approach is quick and straight forward. Just make sure that you park your car at the right place, the local farmer normally cleans a quite big area for parking away from his garage

Rise, Offerdal

I would say that this is one of the best areas in Suede taking in mind the big number of routes which is concentrated so close to each other, with it's good quality and various grades, from WI 3 to M8. Just take care of some of the mixed routes since they sometimes are very demanding and falling is sometimes not an option. Most of them also need extra pro and only a few a fully bolted. But on the other hand so can many of them be top roped first, before the sharp lead!
Magic light over Bydalsfjällen

My favorite climbs are the ice formations out on the left side of the crag, thin ice witch all of them has some mixed starts, and often pure rock
An other great route is Svart profetsia - M8 and "Pelarkrisen" and the hard starting "Campai" M7And, when it is formed "Carpe Diam" M6+, is just a great climb at almost a full 50m pitch, long and demanding on own pro!

To get hereFrom Östersund is about 45 km to the village Tulleråsen located northwest of Krokom. In Tulleråsen turn left towards Änge. After a mile, turn up right at a sign for "Rise". After the sharp right curve on the 
hill, a barn on the right side

You need
2x50m rope
4-6 ice scruws, a full rack of nuts and camalots as well as some small Aliens and pitons
8-10 QD´s

For full topo visit

Dec 3, 2013

Speedriding Passion!

A great day speed riding the slopes of mont Joly and les Contamines
With the Bercut 15 from AEROS, a perfect combination of speed and riding

/fly what you climb!

Oct 18, 2013

Gone flying in Maroc -Todgha gorge

Atlas mountains and Todra gorge - Marocco

Aig. Jardin 1875mts, at Todra gorge

A great country to travel in. A lot of nice trekking peaks up to 4167mts, mont Toubkal, as well as a big number of climbing tours. Todra and Taghia is the ones to go to for climbing, The later is a bit more adventure to get to. But wilder! For a week, Todra would be a better choise

Overlooking the "snake"canyon

We had a visit to Todra gorge close to Tinghir for a week of climbing. And of course Flying!
This area has climbing on limestone between 4+ to 8b. Everything from long pure trad routes to newly bolted singel pitch. As well as bolted multi pitch up to 10pitches.

The amount of routes I would say is enough for a couple of weeks climbing for most of us, about 400 routes to chose between. And the potential for putting up new routes are enormous

The famous square in Marrakech, a crazy place

How to get here
There is to alternative airports, in Marrakech or Quarzazate
Flying to Quarzaztae means that you miss the trip over the Atlas, god or bad!?
The last bit to Tinghir, which is about 14km before Todra, or Todgha as its also referred to. Done by taxi, which is about 1500MAD from Marrakech or by bus. Which cost 130MAD with baggage.
The best ones are CTM and Supratours. The last one is bit quicker with fewer stops, takes 6hours and 9h with CTM
The last bit up to the Gorge is done by local bus or private taxi. The bus takes 20min from Tinghir and cost 7MAD. If you prefer walking it takes about 3h!

The road over the Atlas, very curvy

The climbing in Todra has evertyhing from bolted singel pitch to mutlipitching on own gear, a.k.a tradclimbing. But also up to 10 pitches of bolted routes. And grades between 4+ to 8b. It's over 400 established routes and a huge amount of areas for new routes. So a week will pass quicky.
The aspect of the walls makes it possible to climb all day in the shade, or in the sun if you prefer!
Routes not to be missed would be le Scorpion and Elephant. And Chibania 6b+ on Pilier du Couhant
The amount of climbers is low so don't suspect to many around, but the number of regular tourists is huge!
The month of September to November sees the biggers numbers of tourists. But most of them are day visitors

For singel sport pitching the Petit Gorge, about 4km from the main gorge is a good spot. Nice routes from 5b to 8b and some really nice 6b climbing. Metalica 7a and Sati 7b, trés bien belle!
Steep and overhanging...

Anna is staying focused on Sati 7b!

For info about the tours and a topo you can find Allal Fadili, how also has a small "shop" at the other end of the canyon. Just ask for him and they will know! He will also help to show any of the routes. And can provide with most of the gear you need, even renting you are rope!
Which isn't to bad because the impact on the ropes are big! The sharp and quite "colour full"rock will adopt the colour of dust brown to the rope, no matter how you do

For staying I recommend to stay outside the gorge, the hotels in the gorge are supplied via diesel plants, very noisy and at 23:00 they are turned of, means clean dark!
Otherwhise a cheap alternative is to stay in a pitched tent at the roof of hotel Mansour, if you just can stand the smell and noise.Or, try to get a place in this one...

No, its not muttons at the trailer...

Hotel Dar Ayour, is a small guest house suited just before the gorge, very nice, clean and good service. Just stay away from the wine (yes they have wine) but sold at 150MAD/bouteille! Pass any of the Supermarchés before you leave Marrakech instead
They have wifi and very nice rooms, a little smelly though because of the numbers of cheaps and goats extérieur, but on the other hand gives a little "piff exotica" not to be underestimated!

Breakfast at Dar Ayour
Climbing aig. jardin, Todra

And what ever you do, dont miss a tour to the old Hammam in Tinghir, with a ruff massage done by the owner! Might also involve a cup of tea after the traitement, if you still can walk:-)

Entrance to the Hammam
EquipmentYou need a minimum of 60m rope, 12QD´s, a small amount of wires and cams for the trad routes and a couple of extra hangers for 10mm bolts (sometimes missed)Extra cord for the rappel anchours, to change to old cords (dont forget to bring the old stuff back)The people here are very intense but super friendly. Very interested about the climbing, so just relax and have tea with them. Dosnt mean that you need to buy stuffAnd if you run in to Elfadili Ihoussaine, say hello from me and he will help you with totti!Very nice and just wants to help, not after your euros

Cheaper way of transport...
A nice way to finich the trip is a visit to Jardin Majorelle in Marakech, a great place to escape the town and very beatiful with all the flower and trees. A small oase away from the crazy traffic
map to Majorelle
In 1923 Jacques Majorelle bought 1.6 hectar of land and turned it into a small paradise of wild trees and flowers
Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé découvrent le Jardin 1966 and now its open daily, entrance fee of 50MAD/5€

 Jardin Majorelle

Coffey in Tinghir,at hotel Oasis. The beds are cheap but very crowded...beacoup the "poux"
The coffey at hotel Oasis in Tinghir, opposite the bus station, is much recommended
But, stay away from the beds

//Fly what you climb, inshalla...

Sep 26, 2013

Presles - a south facing vertical limestone dream for mulipitching



It's warm, it's steep and the just a grade.

After a loong week with rain, rain and more rain the only reasonable plan was to head south, to get some decent sun on the skin. After a no from our premium plan, Italy. Cause of a closed hut, we quickly rearranged in the hallway and headed for Presles in the heart of Vercors.


At an altitude of 800+ it's low enough to stay warm during most of the year. During the summer it most be way to hot, specially since the limestone walls are mostly south facing.

The village of Presles is very picturesque and very small. If you don't step on break in time, you will miss it!

Le chez Ezéo, the small "restaurant" in the village performs great Coffey and after climb beer. Don't miss the béer rouge Belgique!

Chez Ezéo, Presles, always velcome, if it's not to close to closing that would be...

To give any advice regarding the climbs is difficile, mots of the climbs are 3* and above. But, take care of reading about when the routes are put up and by who. The "bomb" signs in the topo "Escalade a Presles" made by Dominique Duhaut is very accurate, even though the pictures leaves a lot for the mind

For hot mid days or afternoons a ballade to the village of Pont en Royans is a nice one, with it's hanging houses. It also has some good fishing right in town.

And, some very good restaurants and bakerys

Having a good time on Temps de Guenilles, 6b+
Anna fighting on 7a at Singes en L'hiver

For the camping, either stay in the hostel of Chez Ezèo, about 12€/night, or wild camping is an other option. But, take care of where you amp and stay"low profile" since there has been many disputes with some of the local habitants. Just to keep it climbable for the future

Bazaar de Jazz Et bier

Otherwhise, looking for a great place to climb multi pitch routes on steep limestone, no reason not to go to Presles. It's a great place, at least if you dont care to much about the grading, cause its a little bit hardish...

Free camp and stay low



Le Chrysanthèmes, a nice route if you forgett the first pitches and focus on the rest. But an advice is also to take a short cut and climb the last pitch variation to the right at the top


You need/Equipment

50m rope, 2x50 if you rappel, 12-14QD's, 2 free biners and a sling for most of the belays, a lot of chalk...

For some of the routes a smaller set of stoppers and some cams are useful

Bring extra cord for the Belays, to start changing the old cords (remember to bring the old stuff home)

Time to go

March to June, September to November

//"När det är tyst och stilla som marken, hörs dånet av ett rytande högt genom rymden..."